Mera Bharat Mahan:: Self-Drive to Ajanta–Verul, Timeless Art in Stone

प्राप्त काल हा विशाल भूधर, सुंदर लेणी तयात खोदा

- केशवसुत

     

A five-day self-drive travelogue from Pune through Ajanta and Verul (Ellora) - exploring ancient rock-cut art, forts, temples, and local flavours across Chhatrapati Sambhaji Nagar. A practical, and insightful guide for travellers who love culture and roads less taken.

 

Day 1: Pune → Ajanta - Into the Past

The road rolled out at 4:25 a.m. from Pune- foggy Chandanapuri Ghat, silent Chakan Chowk, and a smooth cruise on the Samruddhi Mahamarg. By sunrise, the Devgiri silhouette appeared in the mist. 

By 9 a.m., we exited at Chhatrapati Sambhaji Nagar, and reached Ajanta at 10:45 am. Expect the usual bustle at the entrance souvenir sellers, guides calling out, and shuttle queues brimming with energy. The green shuttle ride (₹25) leads to the cave foothill.

        

Ajanta Caves – Silence That Still Speaks

The Ajanta Caves form a vast horseshoe-shaped amphitheatre carved into basalt cliffs, where the Waghora River once tumbled in waterfalls. 

Inside, cool air and echoing chants seem to hold the memory of monks long gone. The murals of Padmapani and Vajrapani, serene and luminous, still embody compassion

 Apsaras glide across ceilings amid lotus and floral motifs reminiscent of early block prints.

 Every wall captures a living world - merchants, musicians, kings, and commoners. 

The Sleeping Buddha (Cave 26) radiates peace

while the Jataka Tales unfold through pigments that have defied two millennia. Greek curls, Persian robes, African faces - proof that Ajanta was a global crossroads of its time. Our guide, Mr Sarang Bhagwan Deshmukh - 9423454345, decoded gestures and fading pigments with wit and authority.

  

Pro Tips

• Carry a small torch for viewing details (allowed).
• Book tickets online to skip queues.
• No drinking water or food stalls inside.
• Wear shoes with good grip; basalt steps can be slippery.
• MTDC foothill restaurant offers simple but clean meals.

Evening rest at MTDC Fardapur: reliable comfort, gentle service reminders, and bougainvillea-framed villas - one even hid a wild-berry shrub by the porch.

   

  

Day 2: Anwa Temple, Devgiri Fort & Grishneshwar Jyotirlinga - Stones, Shrines & Simple Meals

The drive from Ajanta to Verul winds through quiet farmland. A short detour led to Anwa Temple, a solitary Hemadpanthi shrine - intricate carvings and timeless geometry. A delight for architecture lovers, though others may find it niche.

 

Lunch at Sai Family Restaurant (Sambhaji Nagar–Phulambri–Sillod Road) was a revelation - crisp bhakri, shevga dry, spicy shev bhaji, paneer bhaji, and thick dahi & buttermilk straight from a farmhouse kitchen. A hidden highway gem.

 

Next came the mighty Devgiri Fort, a masterclass in medieval strategy - deceptive staircases, angled gates, and blind turns meant to confuse attackers. 

Our guide Mr Thomas Bansod – 9960144746 narrated Yadava and Bahamani tales with lively humour. 

The 4-hour climb rewarded us with panoramic plains and bastions standing proud.

 

At the base, Sainath Hotel surprised again - rustic dal bati with thecha, smoky and memorable. Evening brought serenity at Grishneshwar Jyotirlinga. Men must enter bare-chested - a mark of humility. Touching the Shivalinga, amid rhythmic chants and stone pillars, felt deeply grounding. Stay at Kailas hotel was peaceful and next to Verul Caves.

 

Day 3–4: Verul Caves - Carved Time

Verul (Ellora) deserves patience, not a checklist. We explored it over three sessions - morning, afternoon, and next dawn - letting the light shift and reveal new dimensions.

 

The Kailasa Temple (Cave 16) remains one of humanity’s boldest creations - hewn top-down from a single basalt cliff into a complete, freestanding temple. Precision, proportion, and artistry converge into what feels divine in intent.

 

Nearby, the Buddhist Chaitya (Vishwakarma Cave 10), often called Sangeetshala, resonates with perfect acoustics - one soft “Om” lingers in its stone ribs. 

The Jain Caves (32–33) close the journey with delicate grace and calm detail. Together they form a continuous timeline of Buddhist restraint, Hindu grandeur, and Jain finesse.

 

Tip: Reach by 6:30 a.m. if you love quiet photography; the interplay of first light and stone is magical.

 

Day 4: Verul Revisited, Bhadra Maruti & Bibi ka Maqbara

Returning early to Verul rewarded us with silence and sunlight - stone transforming into story. Morning calm at Bhadra Maruti Temple offered a welcome pause - locals chanting under neem trees before the reclining Hanuman idol, radiating serenity.

 

By afternoon, Bibi ka Maqbara, the so-called Mini Taj, shone softly against the Deccan sky. Its lawns and sunset hues spoke more of quiet dignity than imitation.

Evening wandered into Sambhaji Nagar bazaars – north Indian veg and hot jalebi at Green Leaf restaurant, Paithani at Raj Stores, fiery Samosa Rice and misal at Trimurti Appa Nasta Centre, Chat at Bhalla Chat, Pedha at Appa Halwai and tasty paan. A perfect close to a day woven with faith, art, and flavour.

 

Day 5: Sambhaji Nagar → Pune - The Road Home

We began early, 6:30 a.m., tracing the Samruddhi Mahamarg back toward Pune. The scale impressed, the bumps surprised.
The Sinnar–Chandanapuri stretch tested patience with patchy surfaces, but by 1 p.m. the Pune skyline appeared - and with it, quiet satisfaction. Five days, countless bends in stone and time, and the warmth of shared travel. A journey that lingers long after the unpacking.

      

Final Thoughts

Ajanta and Verul aren’t just monuments - they’re meditations in basalt.
Each stroke of chisel, each pigment, is a whisper from two millennia ago.

The drive grounds you in the present - tolls, turns, and thalis - yet standing inside those caves reminds you how far imagination once dared to go.

So start early. Stay flexible. Let history reveal itself slowly.
Because here, history doesn’t shout - it surrounds you.