Mera Bharat Mahan:: Self-drive Road Trip - Glimpse of Gujarat’ (Trip Log)
This is a 'raw' log of our road trip. Gujarat road trip was on our bucket list for quite some time. The purpose was to visit Unesco World Heritage sites in Gujarat, enjoy delicious food, do shopping and create memories with family on a long road trip.
We knew Gujarat goes all out for Diwali, with everyone taking a break and traveling; and this would mean crowded places and some famous shops not being open. But because of school holidays, we couldn't pick a different time for our trip.
Day 1: Saturday, 2 November 2024 || Pune - Vadodara 574 km, via Nashik Saputara
Supposedly an ambitious long drive, but turned out to be feasible due to disciplined driving with periodic breaks.
345 am - 7 am: Drive to Nashik (202 km). Started from Home on the routine Nashik highway (202 km), avoiding Chakan traffic and negotiating random speed-breakers. Near Vani, waved hand at the series of forts in Satmal range - familiar due to several of our treks in the region.
7 - 815 am: Drive to Saputara (91 km). Entered the state of Gujarat, at Saputara hill station. 291 km from home. Decent breakfast in Khau Galli - Bataka Poha, Pav Bhaji, Masala Dosa, Chai with lemongrass. Buzzing place with tourists.
10 am - 215 pm: Drive to Vadodara (288 km). Descended long ghat section to enter dense teakwood jungle of Dang district, near Waghai. 12 pm - Traversed through the state highway to connect Mumbai - Ahmedabad Highway near Navasari. Speed limit of 100, but heavy traffic of trucks and car racing through the traffic. A bit of random potholes were popping up. Bypassed Surat, Bharuch. Entered Vadodara. Being a ‘Marathi Manus’, instantly felt familiar calm vibe of the city. Checked in at - ‘Hotel Midtown’ for a basic stay with essential amenities.
Had yummy lunch at ‘Kathiyavadi Khadki’- simple, pocket-friendly thali with distinct taste for every cusine. Local transport using Uber was simple, while auto rickshaws were asking a random rate. Upon a much-needed nap, visited the vibrant Alkapuri road to enjoy Bombay sandwich, juice, Pani Puri and Rajasthani Kulfi. Bought authentic musk attar at Yahzin Attarwala. The Diwali vibe, colors and lights on the clean roads on Vadodara were refreshing.
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Day 2: Sunday, 3 November 2024 || Vadodara - Champaner - Ahmedabad (213 km)
Day 2 was about visiting the heritage site at Champaner, enjoying local food and then visiting Adalaj Stepwell and closing the day upon visiting the Akshardham Temple of Gandhinagar.
7-8 am: Drive from Vadodara to Champaner (47 km). Reached the extremely crowded parking area for Shree Mahakali Mataji Temple, Pavagadh. We couldn’t dare visiting the temple on the hill top due to massive crowd.
8-9 am: Unesco world heritage site at Champaner is less known and not crowded at all. The Great Mosque (Jami Masjid) is a captivating blend of Hindu (Solanki and Chauhan dynasties, 8th to 14th centuries) and Islamic (Sultan Mahmud Begada, 15th centrury) architectural styles. Jami Masjid is quite big with 2 iconic minarets, around 172 pillars and seven mihrabs (prayer niches), and a separate prayer zhali for women. The Mihrabs themselves, are a fusion of architectural styles with the basic prayer niche in its classic arch shape and the insides of it carved with designs typical of Hindu or Jain temples.
9-1015 am: Traveled back to Vadodara. Visited ‘Jai Mahakali Sev Usal’ - a renowned eatery in Vadodara, elebrated for its unique sev usal, a flavorful blend of spiced chickpeas and crispy sev. Unlike the widely popular misal pav, sev usal distinguishes itself with its distinct combination of ingredients and bold flavors.
1045am-01pm: Traveled from Vadodara - Ahmedabad (128 km), on the express highway NE1, which speed limit of 100. Took the busy outer ring road of Ahmedabad to reach Kudasan. Checked in at ‘The Lemongrass Hotels’, Kudasan.
After taking a nap, visited Adalaj Stepwell at 4 pm - a masterpiece of Indo-Islamic architecture, that was built in 1498 by Queen Rudabai of the Vaghela dynasty. This five-story marvel, adorned with intricate carvings depicting Hindu deities and mythological scenes, showcases the harmonious blend of Hindu and Islamic architectural styles.
At 6 pm, visited BAPS Akshardham Temple at Gandhi Nagar, which was beautifully decorded with Diwali diyas. Due to the heavy crowd, we later thought that we could have simply avoided visiting the temple.
Enjoyed elaborate Gujarati thali dinner at RIVAJ - Gujarati Rasthal, before heading for a good night sleep!
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Day 3: Monday, 4 November 2024 || Ahmedabad - Dhordo (419 km, 8 hours)
Day 3 was a long drive to Kutch/ Kachchh, crossing the gulf of Kutch to reach the Rann, and visiting some artists in the city of Bhuj.
6am-2pm: Nice long drive from Kudasan/Ahmedabad to Bhuj (355 km). Enjoyed breakfast of Poha, Dhokla, Fafda, Khaman at ‘Honest’ (a chain of highway foodmalls). Around 11 am, crossed the gulf of Kutch, which is a fascinating landscape with vast salt pans, electric lines crisscrossing the sky, the long road bridge. As we entered coutryside, Sugar n’ Spice restaurant at Bhachau enabled us take a much needed chai-sandwich break. Upon long stretch of GJ SH 7, with speed limit 100, the road quality started deteriorated with potholes, as we came closer to Bhuj. Reached Bhuj at 2 pm. Relished yummy Kathiawadi Thali at Umiyaji Dining Hall. A full jar of buttermilk was a delightful addition. At billing counter, bought local pickles, chhunda, buttermilk masala and saunf, which are all great.
2-430 pm: Amruta being an artist wanted to spend time with local artists. We stepped into a world of vibrant colors and intricate designs at ‘Rogan Art’ Bhuj, to witness the magic of ‘Rogan Art Painting’, a centuries-old tradition preserved by the skilled hands of Shri Ashish Kansara and his family. Such a down-to-earth artist, with no commercial expectations! Ashish Sir was kind enough to enable us spent a couple of hours doing a hands-on workshop on Rogan Art. Amruta was truly delighted!
Refilled full tank at petrol pump in Bhuj, which turned out to be a mindful task. We were not going to come across any petrol pumps for next 1 day. Overall during the trip, we ensured refueling ahead of 200 km notification for tank empty.
430-630 pm: Drove on a single lane road from Bhuj to Gorewali near the White Rann of Kutch (80 km), through a marshy surrounding. Took a tiny stop at Bhirandiara served Mava (Khava). The drive to the stay location ‘Gorewali’ was on a very narrow road and the tyre noise due to the sand on the road was noticeable.
Reached at ‘Happy Family Home Stay’ Gorewali for a simple stay in a colorful local mud house, aka ‘Bhunga’ hut. Enjoyed homely food and hospitality. Night was nice cold and full of stars in the sky.
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Day 4: Tuesday, 5 November 2024 || Dhordo - Dholavira (134 km, 3 hours)
This was a beautiful day, with unbelievable sightseeing of The White Rann of Kutch, followed by Kalo Dungar, driving on the ‘Road to Heaven’, experiening the divine ‘Rann of Dholavira’ and Dholavira Unesco World Heritage site.
6: 15 am: Started from Gorewali for visiting ‘White Rann of Kutch’ near village of Dhordo. We had got the permit to enter Rann online in advance, which was a wise move as the Internet range near the Rann is weak. Our Permit was checked at the entry.
7:06 am: We were right on time to witness the sun rising at the horizon. What a divine sight to see the endless expanse of white salt! The sky erupted in a kaleidoscope of colors, casting a magical glow over the desert. ‘The White Rann of Kutch’, a vast salt marsh had transformed into a mesmerizing white desert post monsoon, is created by seasonal flooding and subsequent evaporation. Stepping onto this ethereal landscape, we felt like we were walking on another planet. The Rann was still not completely dry and hence walking in the marshy field of salt and little bit of water was difficult and funny. It was unbelievable that we were just a few kms away from Pakistan border.
930-1045 am: After having breakfast at the homestay, we enjoyed doing a quick photoshoot wearing traditional Kutch attire. Enroute ‘Kalo Dungar’, we experienced an intriguing phenomenon of the ‘Magnetic Hill’ - where it appeared as if vehicles are rolling uphill, when in neutral gear. Despite its name ‘Magnetic Hill’, the hill doesn't possess any actual magnetic properties and instead it creates an optical illusion due to the surrounding terrain. Worth experiencing though!
11am-12pm: Reached ‘Kalo Dungar’, also known as Black Hill, is the highest point in the Kutch to see a breathtaking panoramic view of the Great Rann of Kutch, the vast salt desert below. At the edge of the hill, the vast expanse of white salt stretches created a mesmerizing contrast with the blue sky. India-Pakistan border fence is few kms away, but the iconic India Bridge which was fought in the war of 1971 was visible as a symbol of the country's border security. Additionally, the hill is home to the Dattatreya Temple.
12-1pm: Drove on ‘Road to Heaven’ - a 35 km stretch of road newly constructed on the Rann marshy land. The single lane road is renowned for its surreal beauty. It traversed the vast white expanse of the Great Rann of Kutch, offering breathtaking views of the salt flats and the distant horizon. Unreal experience indeed!
115 pm: Reached Rann of Kutch accessible near Dholavira. This is a much superior stretch of salt desert than the one near Dhordo. Fabulous! Checked in at ‘Rann Resort Dholavira’. Had basic lunch thali.
4-7pm: Visited Dholavira Unesco World Heritage site, which is a remarkable Harappan city, showcasing a sophisticated urban civilization with its three-tiered fortification system and water management system. Taking ASI guide was a must to understand the nuances. Strategically located near vital trade routes, Dholavira thrived as a hub for economic exchange. The discovery of unique inscriptions, including one of the longest in the Indus script, offers glimpses into the writing system of the Indus Valley people. Visit in the morning (easy weather, less crowded), with the site first and then visit the museum to connect the dots would be better. Middle and lower town is skipped by most guides. Insist on the guide getting covered. Be careful during the site visit, as there are reptiles hiding beneath the stones and cavities. Watch for ancient pot shards scattered in the area - easily locatable. Observe variety of stones - sand stones, lime stones and Fossil stones.
We enjoyed local folk music at the stay.
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Day 5: Wednesday, 6 November 2024 || Dholavira - Patan - Modhera - Ahmedabad (367 km)
Despite yet another day of long drive through a mix of state highway, village road, national highways and driving on some confusing country roads, the day delighted us with the natural wonder at Rann of Vauva with the view of millions of birds, and another set of heritage sites at Patan and Modhera, and finally closing the day at Ahmedabad with shopping and yummy food.
530-945 am: Started quite early in the morning. After crossing the island of Dholavira/ Khadir Bet, a bridge took us to Balasar. Freshly-made morning adrak chai was welcome. From here, Google made us take a 62 km long country road which appeared quite confusing (but we later realized that it was the right road). This included traveling on the 14 km long missing link - Mauvana-Gadkabet-Vauva, over the ‘White Rann of Vauva’ which also shares border with Pakistan. This elevated road is another ‘Road to Heaven’ like the one near Dholavira. This road runs right through the heart of Kutch Desert Wildlife Sanctuary and hence personally to me, it’s not clear, how this road is approved. Anyway. Right at the beginning of elevated road, we witnessed something I haven’t ever seen in life - millions of aquatic birds!
We continued travel to finally join ‘Santalpur - Palanpur’ highway, huhh! A further super fast road took us to Patan.
10-1130 am: Visited Rani ki Vav, a magnificent stepwell in Patan, which was built in the 11th century by Udayamati, wife of King Bhima I of the Solanki dynasty. India’s Rs 100 currency note has the photo of Rani ki Vav. A testament to the region's arid climate and reverence for water, it features intricate sculptures depicting Hindu deities, mythological figures, and everyday life, showcasing the pinnacle of Maru-Gurjara architectural style. The stepwell's unique sculptures, such as those of celestial nymphs (apsaras) and erotic couples, reflect the region's rich cultural heritage and artistic traditions. We took ASI guide, which is needed to understand the site. Patan saree museum ‘Patan Patola Heritage’ can be visited, while we skipped the shopping. We found a decent restaurant (possibly the best at Patan) - Hotel CarreFour, to have punjabi subji-roti.
1:15-2:45 pm: Reached Modhera to visit Modhera Sun temple. This time. Taking ASI guide was essential and helpful. The Sun Temple of Modhera, built in the 11th century by the Chaulukya dynasty, is a masterpiece of Hindu architecture, meticulously designed according to Vastu Shastra principles. Dedicated to the solar deity Surya, the temple features intricate carvings depicting mythological scenes and celestial bodies. Its unique design, aligned with the cardinal directions, allows the sun's rays to illuminate the sanctum during the equinox, creating a breathtaking celestial spectacle.
3-5:15 pm: Drove to Ahmedabad through heavy traffic on Palanpur highway. The city of Ahmedabad is also a heritage site. Attempted hard to book Ahmedabad Heritage Walk, but it wasn't operational. Checked in at ‘The Cama - A Sabarmati Riverfront Hotel’, which was the most comfortable stay of the trip.
In the evening, headed for dinner at Swati Snacks, a culinary gem in Ahmedabad, that offered a delightful journey through Gujarati cuisine. From unique delicacies like Panki and Fada Ni Khichdi to traditional favorites, Swati Snacks is a must-visit for food lovers. Slightly premium pricing, but serves authentic Gujarati food. Enjoyed street shopping near Law Garden shopping area. Visit to the mega store ‘National Handloom’ was overwhelming, and added lots of shopping bags in our car.
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Day 6: Thursday, 7 November 2024 || Ahmedabad - Vadodara (111 km)
The first half included quick Ahmedabad sightseeing, before heading back to Vadodara.
Breakfast at Gajanand Pauva House - where we had yummy masala poha, sandwich, Rajwadi Kulhad chai. Loaded bags of awesome Khakhara and snacks at Induben Khakhrawala.
Visited Gandhi Ashram, Sabarmati - a historic site founded by Mahatma Gandhi in 1915, played a pivotal role in India's freedom struggle. Located on the banks of the Sabarmati River in Ahmedabad, it served as a center for Gandhi's experiments with truth, nonviolence, and self-sufficiency. Visiting the ashram offers a unique opportunity to immerse oneself in Gandhi's legacy and experience the peaceful and inspiring atmosphere he created. Met Trekker-Blogger friend Pankaj Zarekar with his family (and funnily kept meeting him again at next 3 destinations)
A visit to Vikram Sarabhai Space Exhibition Center was educational for daughter, as it took us on a captivating journey through India's space program, showcasing models, interactive displays, and a 3D theater.
2 pm: drove from Ahmendabad to Amul Anand plant. Online booking was required for visitors to visit the plant during 2-4 pm. We embarked on a fascinating journey through the heart of India's White Revolution at the Amul Anand plant. We witnessed the meticulous process of transforming fresh milk into a myriad of dairy products, from creamy milk to delectable cheese. For the engineer within me, the control systems and the packaging process of Amul butter was delightful watch. Lunch at Amul Foodland.
Drove to Vadodara to check in at the premium stay of Madhav Bagh - Royal Heritage Stay. This is a restored heritage home in Vadodara. The friendly owners Gaekwads, descendants of the royal family, shared fascinating tales of their ancestors, adding a personal touch to our stay. We immersed ourself in the rich history and elegant ambiance of this royal residence; and did a photoshoot too.
For dinner, we went to a unique place Gazra Cafe, nestled in Vadodara's historic Maharani Chimnabai Stree Udyogalaya, that offered a unique culinary experience serving authentic Maharashtrian and Gujarati dishes. The cafe's heritage building boasts a blend of modern and traditional decor, creating an inviting atmosphere. Highly Recommended!
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Day 7: Friday, 8 November 2024 || Vadodara - SoU (77 km)
This was a day of sightseeing at Vadodara, seeing the master copies of Raja Ravi Verma paintings and later visiting Statue of Unity.
In the morning, visited Lakshmi Vilas Palace, a stunning Indo-Saracenic masterpiece in Vadodara, Gujarat, was once the world's largest private residence, surpassing Buckingham Palace. Its grandeur is epitomized by the opulent main darbar hall, adorned with intricate carvings, majestic chandeliers, and a mesmerizing dome. Viewing the master copies of Raja Ravi Verma paintings was particularly interesting at Maharaj Fattesingh Museum.
230pm: Reached Garudeshwar (77 km). Had lunch at Jagdish Works Cuisine. Headed to see The Statue of Unity, a colossal tribute to Sardar Vallabhbhai Patel, that stands tall as the world's tallest statue. Ascending to its peak offered breathtaking panoramic views of the Narmada River valley. Watching the light and sound show is a captivating experience. Dinner at The Dhaba, Kevadiya.
Day 8 & 9: Saturday, 9 November 2024 || SoU - Saputara - Nashik (318 km); Pune (203 km)
Visited Garudeshwar temple, a sacred place for devotees of Lord Dattatreya, situated on the banks of the Narmada river. Tembe Swami Samadhi is the final resting place of Paramahamsa Parivrajakacharya Shree Vasudevananda Saraswathy Swamy Maharaj, a revered spiritual figure.
Return journey on a bad road and some detours took test of our patience.
A small break to enjoy unique taste of sugarcase juice, with pineapple added
Loved shopping at ‘The Rural Mall’ in Mandvi, especially the Bamboo artifacts.
Once we entered the state of Maharashtra and traveled to Pune, we were greeted several times by the hardworking folks wearing white uniform. We also started meeting adventurous drivers all along. Felt like being back to homeland!
Overall, simply awesome and fulfilling trip providing glimpse of Gujarat. The 2600 km road trip through Gujarat provided us unique perspective into the stunning landscape of White Rann of Kutchh, UNESCO World Heritage sites (Dholavira, Rani ki Vav, Champaner), local food and loong drive. Enjoyed yummy food. Feeling blessed to visit our Bharat! Truly, Mera Bharat Mahan!
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